Αβάν – Τί;
Ναι, πολύ ωραία ακούγεται, αλλά κάποια στιγμή η έννοια του όρου avant-garde πρέπει να ξεκαθαριστεί! «Αυτός ο σχεδιαστής και τα ενδύματα του είναι πολύ avant-garde ενώ τα ρούχα του άλλου σχεδιαστή όχι και τόσο πολύ». Ναι, αλλά τελικά τι σημαίνει πια αυτό το avant-garde;
Ο όρος avant-garde είναι γαλλικός. Στα αγγλικά σημαίνει πρωτοπορία αλλά μπορεί να μεταφραστεί και ως το τμήμα ενός στρατού που προχωράει μπροστά από τα υπόλοιπα μέλη του. Εμφανίστηκε για πρώτη φορά στο πρώτο μισό του δέκατου ένατου αιώνα (circa 1850s) στη Γαλλία και συσχετίστηκε άμεσα με την τέχνη. Εμείς θα αναλύσουμε τον όρο από την σκοπιά της μόδας και όχι αυτή της τέχνης.
Avant-garde in fashion
Το avant-garde σημαίνει εξέλιξη και πρωτοπορία. Ένας σχεδιαστής, προκειμένου να μεταδώσει μια ιστορία, ένα μυστικό, έναν προβληματισμό, κάτι πολύ σημαντικό για εκείνον με βαθύ νόημα μέσα από κάποια κολεξιόν του (π.χ να θίξει το ζήτημα της κλιματικής αλλαγής), θα χρειαστεί να θυσιάσει ορισμένα πράγματα. Προκειμένου να μεταδόσει αυτά που θέλει και να εξελίξει, να εμβαθύνει και να προχωρήσει την τέχνη του, μπορεί να αναγκαστεί να «χάσει» την φορεσιμότητα των ενδυμάτων του.
Για να πετύχει αυτή την μετάδοση συναισθημάτων και ιδεών, ο σχεδιαστής μπορεί να χρειάστηκε να θυσιάσει είτε την μορφή των ενδυμάτων του είτε το περιεχόμενο τους. Όταν κάποιος καταφέρει να λυγίσει και να σπρώξει τα όρια του χώρου της μόδας μέσα από τα ενδύματα του και τις ιστορίες του, μπορεί πλέον να θεωρηθεί avant-garde. (content>form)
To avant-garde, λοιπόν, σημαίνει κάτι πρωτοποριακό, κάτι που σπρώχνει τα όρια ή απλώς τα λυγίζει. Στον κόσμο της μόδας συνηθίζεται να χαρακτιρίζουμε ως avant-garde το έργο κάποιου σχεδιαστή ή τα προϊόντα που παράγει, παρά το στυλ ντυσίματος κάποιου.
Μια βαθύτερη ματιά στον όρο
Μπορούμε να θεωρήσουμε πως η τέχνη χωρίζεται σε περιεχόμενο και μορφή. Το περιεχόμενο έχει να κάνει με την ιστορία, τη σημασιολογία, την προσωποποίηση και το νόημα του έργου. Δηλαδή, το τι λέει αυτό το έργο. Αντιθέτως, η μορφή περιλαμβάνει την υπόστασή του. Με ποια υλικά φτιάχτηκε, που στηρίζεται και πως είναι δομημένο το έργο. Δηλαδή, ο τρόπος με τον οποίο αυτό φαίνεται. Την ίδια σκέψη μπορούμε να εφαρμόσουμε και ειδικότερα στον σχεδιασμό και την παρουσίαση ενδυμάτων. Στην μόδα, η μορφή συσχετίζεται άμεσα με τη φορεσιμότητα του ρούχου, ενώ το περιεχόμενο με την ιδέα και το νόημα του.
Μερικές φορές, απαιτούνται θυσίες προκειμένου να προχωρήσουμε. Στην μόδα αυτές οι θυσίες πραγματοποιούνται στα πλαίσια της φορεσιμότητας. Η εξέλιξη και η πρωτοπορία προκύπτουν μόνο από τις θυσίες, τις δοκιμασίες, τις ιδέες και τις προσπάθειες έκφρασης συναισθημάτων κάποιου ανθρώπου.
Αvant-garde designers
Μέρος I │ Iris Van Herpen
Η Ολλανδή σχεδιάστρια δημιουργεί τα σχέδιά της χρησιμοποιώντας cutting-edge τεχνολογία, όπως 3D printing και κοπές με λέιζερ. Σε συνδυασμό με τεχνικές που είναι γνωστές μόνο για τον οίκο της Iris, παράγει ενδύματα που μοιάζουν με τεχνολογικά αριστουργήματα. Η ίδια, για προηγούμενες συλλογές της, έχει αντλήσει έμπνευση από το lucid dreaming, τη θαλάσσια ζωή, την ύπνωση, τους μύκητες και πιο πρόσφατα την γη και τα ανθρώπινα όρια. Είναι βέβαιο πως το έργο της Iris Van Herpen έχει συμβάλει στην ανάπτυξη, στην εξέλιξη και στην οριοθέτηση της μόδας. Αλλά ακόμη πιο βέβαιο είναι ότι με τον δικό της ξεχωριστό τρόπο, έχει καταφέρει να προβληματίσει τους ανθρώπους του χώρου για τα όρια της ένδυσης. Και αυτό είναι πολύ avant-garde! Η ίδια αναφέρει: “It’s all the impossibilities that keep me going”.
Μέρος II │ Η Rei Kawakubo και ο Yohji Yamamoto
«Στα τέλη της δεκαετίας του 1970, η Rei Kawakubo ξεκίνησε μια επαγγελματική σχέση με τον συνάδελφο Ιάπωνα σχεδιαστή Yohji Yamamoto. Και οι δύο παρήγαγαν ρούχα που επαναπροσδιόρισαν τη μόδα και αμφισβήτησαν τις αντιλήψεις της γυναικείας ομορφιάς. Τα ενδύματα ήταν σκούρα (κυρίως μαύρα), υπερμεγέθη και ασύμμετρα. Δηλαδή, δεν ήταν σύμφωνα με τις γραμμές του ανθρώπινου σώματος.» Η ίδια η Kawakubo αναφέρει: «Ήθελα να κάνω πράγματα που δεν έχουν ξαναγίνει, πράγματα με δυνατή εικόνα.»
H Kawakubo, για τη διάσημη πλέον συλλογή της Lumps and Bumps για την περίοδο S/S 97, έστειλε τα μοντέλα στην πασαρέλα φορώντας φορέματα με υφασμένα μαξιλάρια, που τους έδιναν καμπούρες και έκαναν ορισμένα σημεία του σώματός τους να φαίνονται υπερμεγέθη. Κατάργησε τα όρια μεταξύ δέρματος και ρούχων, κάνοντας τον θεατή να μαντέψει ποια μέρη του σώματος έχουν τροποποιηθεί και αμφισβητώντας τα πρότυπα για το πώς πρέπει να μοιάζει ένα σώμα εξ αρχής.
Πηγές που χρησιμοποιήθηκαν:
Παρόμοια άρθρα:
- Η υψηλή αντι-μόδα της Rei Kawakubo
- Η απλότητα και η διαφορετικότητα του Yohji Yamamoto
- Ο εκδημοκρατισμός της μόδας
- Τι είναι το Fashion Week;
Ακολουθήστε τις σελίδες μας σε Instagram, Facebook και Spotify για περισσότερη έμπνευση.
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