Το τσιγάρο αποτέλεσε και αποτελεί εν μέρη, στο μυαλό τουλάχιστον κάποιων, fashion statement. Όλα τα media κατά καιρούς , τηλεόραση, κινηματογράφος, ραδιόφωνο προωθούσαν την χρήση του τσιγάρου ως μια συνήθεια που αρμόζει σε κάποιον που είναι προχωρημένος για την εποχή του. Πάντοτε βέβαια αποκρύπτοντας την αλήθεια για το πόσο βλαβερή είναι η χρήση του.

Πηγή: Pinterest
Πηγή: Pinterest

Τόσο η βιομηχανία του κινηματογράφου όσο και της μόδας θεωρούσαν το τσιγάρο ως μία τάση που προσδίδει στυλ και κύρος. Και λέω θεωρούσαν καθώς έχει γίνει μεγάλος αγώνας για τον παροπλισμό μιας τόσο βλαβερής συνήθειας.

Η αμερικανική καπνοβιομηχανία έχει μια μακρά ιστορία συνεργασίας με την αμερικανική κινηματογραφική βιομηχανία για την προώθηση του τσιγάρου. Η ιστορία περιλαμβάνει τέσσερις κύριες περιόδους:

1920 έως 1950 |

Από το τέλος του βουβού κινηματογράφου και την έλευση της ηχητικής εικόνας μέχρι και το τέλος του λεγόμενου «studio system», οι εταιρείες καπνού παρείχαν το μεγαλύτερο μέρος της εθνικής διαφήμισης της Αμερικής για ταινίες του Hollywood σε εφημερίδες και περιοδικά και στο ραδιόφωνο. Παράλληλα τα περισσότερα αστέρια του Χόλιγουντ είχαν συμβόλαια διαφήμισης πολλών εταιρειών καπνού.

Πηγή: Pinterest
Πηγή: Pinterest
Marlene Dietrich στη ταινία ”The Devil Is a Woman”, 1935(πάνω), Elizabeth Taylor στα Academy Awards, 1961 (κάτω)
1950 έως 1970 |

Η εμφάνιση της τηλεόρασης έκλεισε πολλά στούντιο παραγωγής ταινιών. Έτσι οι εταιρείες καπνού αγόρασαν και χρηματοδότησαν τα δικά τους προγράμματα. Στα τέλη της δεκαετίας του 1950 και στις αρχές της δεκαετίας του 1960, παρά τις προσπάθειες της καπνοβιομηχανίας να καλύψει τα στοιχεία, το κοινό έμαθε περισσότερα για τους κινδύνους που επιφυλάσσει το κάπνισμα στην υγεία – και τα τσιγάρα έχασαν κάποια από την αίγλη τους στην οθόνη.

Πηγή: Pinterest
Πηγή: Pinterest
Audrey Hepburn στη ταινία “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”, 1961
Μετά το 1970 |

Το 1971, οι ΗΠΑ απαγόρευσαν τη μετάδοση διαφημίσεων προϊόντων καπνού , με το κάπνισμα στα τηλεοπτικά δράματα να μειώνεται αμέσως κατά 70 τοις εκατό. Έτσι οι εταιρείες καπνού επέστρεψαν στη συνέχεια σε συστηματικές εκστρατείες τοποθέτησης προϊόντων στο Χόλιγουντ, επηρεάζοντας εκατοντάδες ταινίες mainstream. Βασική στρατηγική για τους εμπόρους καπνού, ήταν η χρήση τσιγάρου από τους αστέρες του Χολυγουντ.

Πηγή: Pinterest
Πηγή: Pinterest
Thierry Mugler, άνοιξη/καλοκαίρι, 1998, (πάνω), Ralph Lauren φθινόπωρο/χειμώνας ,1984/5, (κάτω)
2000 |

Η Συμφωνία Κύριου Διακανονισμού ( Master Settlement Agreement ) του 1998 μεταξύ γενικών εισαγγελέων και εγχώριων εταιρειών καπνού απαγόρευσε την τοποθέτηση προϊόντων καπνού στο χώρο της ψυχαγωγίας που ήταν προσβάσιμη στα παιδιά. Παρά αυτήν τη νομικά δεσμευτική συμφωνία,  το κάπνισμα στην μικρή και μεγάλη οθόνη αυξήθηκε μέχρι το 2005. Οι ταινίες των ΗΠΑ παραμένουν βασικοί στρατολόγοι νέων καπνιστών σε όλο τον κόσμο και εξακολουθούν να υπάρχουν αναφορές για τοποθέτηση προϊόντων καπνού σε ταινίες.

Πηγή: Pinterest
Πηγή: Pinterest
Linda Evangelista by Patrick Demarchelie (πάνω), Tatjana Patzt by Peter Lindbergh, Vogue Italia,1990 (κάτω)

Οι πασαρέλες και ο κόσμος της μόδας κατακλύζεται από φωτογραφίσεις, εικόνες, αφίσες όπου το τσιγάρο κατέχει πρωτεύοντα ρόλο στη προώθηση της τέχνης και της δημιουργίας, Διάσημοι οίκοι βάζουν τα μοντέλα τους να περπατήσουν με τις αριστουργηματικές τους δημιουργίες με τσιγάρα στηριζόμενα σε περίτεχνες πίπες.

Πηγή: Pinterest
Πηγή: Pinterest

Το τσιγάρο παίρνει μία ακόμα πιο καλλιτεχνική εικόνα διακοσμημένο με πολύτιμους λίθους, κρυστάλλους και πέρλες. Διάσημες φιγούρες του χώρου της μόδας  δημιουργούν το απόλυτο statement και προωθούν μια εικόνα που όσο καλλιτεχνική και αν φαντάζει, σε μια κοινωνία καθόλα επιρρεπή σε επιβλαβείς απολαύσεις, αποτελεί λάθος πρότυπο.

Πηγή: Pinterest
Πηγή: Pinterest
Dsquared² , Εβδομάδα Μόδας, Μιλάνο, Φθινόπωρο 2013 (πάνω), Louis Vuitton φθινόπωρο/χειμώνας 2011 (κάτω)

Η σχέση του καπνίσματος με τη μόδα ανάγεται στη δεκαετία του 1920, όταν οι γυναίκες άρχισαν να αγκαλιάζουν το παραδοσιακά ανδρικό χόμπι. Με τις έννοιες της εξέγερσης και της ανεξαρτησίας τα μοντέλα απεικονίζονταν συχνά σε διαφημιστικά μηνύματα με ένα τσιγάρο στο χέρι. Μέχρι τη δεκαετία του 1960, ο Yves Saint Laurent σχεδίασε ακόμη και ένα γυναικείο σμόκιν προφανώς για καπνιστές, με τίτλο «Le Smoking», με σατέν πέτα για να απωθεί τη στάχτη.

Πηγή: Pinterest
Grace Jones by Jean Paul Goude

Μια έρευνα της Ευρωπαϊκής Αναπνευστικής Εταιρείας (ERS) αναφέρει ότι το κάπνισμα προκαλεί μειωμένη πρόσληψη θερμίδων επειδή τροποποιεί την ορμόνη πείνας, γνωστή και ως ορμόνη γκρελίνη (hormone ghrelin) . Πολλά κορίτσια αρχίζουν να καπνίζουν για να διαχειριστούν το βάρος τους και λόγω της εξάρτησής τους από τη νικοτίνη μεταφέρουν τη συνήθεια αυτή μέχρι την ενηλικίωση. Η αύξηση βάρους μετά την παύση (PSCWG) είναι αυτό που αποθαρρύνει τους ανθρώπους να σταματήσουν το κάπνισμα.

 

Πηγή: Pinterest
Πηγή: Pinterest
Dsquared² , Εβδομάδα Μόδας, Μιλάνο, Φθινόπωρο 2013

Το μόντελιγκ δεν αποτέλεσε ποτέ εύκολη υπόθεση για το σώμα. Απαιτεί από το εκάστοτε άτομο να τρώει φαγητό σαν αυτό να είναι φάρμακο και να ασκείται σαν να είναι το τέλος του κόσμου. Αλλά ακόμη και τότε χρειάζεται σημαντική προσπάθεια για να διατηρηθεί το βάρος του σε συγκεκριμένα επίπεδα. Δεν είναι μυστικό ότι τα μοντέλα καπνίζουν και πλέον ξέρουμε πώς διατηρούν τους κοιλιακούς τους.

Πηγή: Pinterest
Πηγή: Pinterest
Bella Hadid (πάνω), Candice Swanepoel (κάτω)

Ποτέ όμως δεν πρέπει να ξεχνάμε ότι το κάπνισμα συνδέεται άμεσα με την επιβάρυνση της υγείας, ένα αγαθό ανεκτίμητο που χωρίς αυτό δεν μπορούμε να απολαύσουμε την αίγλη που προσφέρει η ζωή πάνω σαυτό τον πλανήτη. Τα χέρια και η ανάσα μυρίζουν, τα δάχτυλα κιτρινίζουν και τα δόντια μαυρίζουν, τα υφάσματα και το περιβάλλον νοτίζουν. Η μόδα του τσιγάρου έχει ξεπεραστεί και είναι καιρός να δώσουμε ΑΝΑΣΑ τόσο στον εαυτό μας όσο και στο περιβάλλον και τους συνανθρώπους γύρω μας.

 

xoxo LilaLounAr.T

Παρόμοια άρθρα

Ακολουθήστε μας σε Instagram, Facebook και Spotify για περισσότερη έμπνευση.

Giving Sight by Beasty-Press

 

 

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